Back in China, at the foot of Muztagh Ata.

Twenty years ago, we climbed this mountain as part of a speed ascent, going straight from base camp (4,400 m) to the summit (7,546 m) in 9 hours and 25 minutes – back then with youthful fitness, but less experience.

Today, I’m starting again – this time with much more experience, but less of that youthful power. Whether experience and planning can make up for the raw physical energy of the past remains to be seen. This expedition is more than just a sporting challenge for me. I’m remembering my two friends, Basti Haag and Matthias Robl, with whom I was lucky enough to complete that successful speed ascent in 2005.

I’m looking back on 20 years of speed mountaineering – and looking ahead. And I’m treating myself to this little self-experiment: youth versus 20 years older.