Broad Peak

Broad Peak 2009 – a Speed Attempt Balancing Determination and Humility

Pakistan: Dynafit athletes Benedikt Böhm and Sebastian Haag set themselves the goal of climbing from the base camp (4,800 metres) of Broad Peak in Pakistan to the 8,051-metre summit of this mountain giant in 18 hours, before skiing back down the terrain, which is steep in places to a gradient of 50 degrees.

On 17 July 2009, following a prolonged spell of bad weather, Benedikt and Sebastian set off on their speed ascent. The two extreme mountaineers made good progress up to an altitude of 7,800 metres – although Sebastian did take a break at one point to replenish his water supplies (his Camelbak had sprung a leak at the start of the ascent). However, due to the masses of snow, it then took them just under four hours to cover 200 metres of elevation gain on the ridge to the secondary summit.

After a total of 16 hours, the pair reached the secondary summit (8,026 m). It was already too late to attempt the main summit, and therefore too dangerous. The only priority was a safe descent to base camp – Sebastian’s coordination problems made a ski descent from the secondary summit impossible. After a total of 39 hours, Benedikt and Sebastian were back at base camp. The speed record failed due to unfortunate incidents that are particularly unpredictable at such altitudes, yet both take the experience and profound memories with them.

A year later, Benedikt – together with Pete Swenson and cameraman Javier Campos – set out on a second attempt. This time, vast amounts of fresh snow and bad weather prevented a successful ascent.

"Broad Peak taught me humility. Summits cannot be forced, even though willpower is a key factor in success. Willpower must never become compulsion. On Broad Peak, I experienced a 48-hour relentless battle at the absolute limit. Straight from base camp through deep snow to the 8,026-metre-high secondary summit. The fatal fall of my friend Cristina Castagna remains unforgettable. I remember frustration and coming back to life. And I remember a friendship marked by tension and uniqueness, as well as encounters with extraordinary people."
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Benedikt

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Broad Peak summit

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