Himalaya 2014

On 19 August 2014, Sebastian Haag and I set off on another skiing expedition to the Himalayas. This time, we weren’t just planning to climb one 8,000-metre peak, but two. The aim was to summit both Shishapangma (8,013 m) and Cho Oyu (8,201 m) on skis in speed-style within just seven days. Furthermore, the route between the summits’ base camps was to be covered exclusively ‘by fair means’ – by mountain bike or on foot. An endeavour at high altitude throughout and without artificial oxygen.
The idea of climbing two eight-thousanders in succession isn’t as crazy as it might sound. Others have done it before, and it actually makes sense. Once acclimatised to the altitude, the physical effort required to tackle a second eight-thousander is considerably less.
But it was not to come to that.
Sebastian Haag and Andrea Zambaldi lost their lives in an avalanche on 24 September 2014. A part of me died with them.

I often go to the mountains. I now stand alone on many of the peaks that Basti and I once climbed together. It is my way of keeping him close, of mourning him, of remembering him and our time together with deep gratitude.

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions

What Was the Aim of the 2014 Himalayan Expedition?

The aim of the 2014 Double 8 Expedition was to climb two eight-thousanders in quick succession using speed-style skiing. The plan was to climb Shishapangma and Cho Oyu (8,188 metres) within just seven days and cover the 170 kilometres between the two mountains by mountain bike.

What Does ‘By Fair Means’ Mean on a Himalayan Expedition?

‘By fair means’ describes an approach whereby an expedition is carried out from base camp under one’s own steam. It means, when climbing the world’s highest mountains, completely foregoing artificial oxygen as well as the support of Sherpas and high-altitude porters, and managing the ascent and descent under one’s own steam and without performance-enhancing aids.

Why Are Expeditions to Eight-Thousanders Without Artificial Oxygen Particularly Demanding?

Expeditions without artificial oxygen require very good acclimatisation, high endurance and a precise assessment of one’s own capabilities. As altitude increases, air pressure – and thus the partial pressure of oxygen – drops significantly, meaning less usable oxygen is available to the body. Measurable declines in performance begin as early as around 3,000 metres. Above around 5,500 metres, it is no longer possible for humans to remain there for any length of time. At an altitude of around 5,000 metres, the body has only around half the oxygen available compared to sea level, which reduces performance accordingly.

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