Spantik Speed Project

A Seven-thousander in 14 Days

by Michał Kaźmierczak

High-altitude mountains are not a popular destination for ski expeditions. Very few people practice this sub-discipline of skiing, and their attention usually focuses on eight-thousanders. No wonder – successes on the world’s highest peaks quickly make it to mainstream media and are widely commented on. But high mountains are not just eight-thousanders. Seven-thousand meter peaks, six-thousanders, sometimes entire valleys untouched by humans – these are areas that provide vast space for developing one’s mountain creativity and implementing exploratory skiing projects.

First ascents, first descents, speed ascents, or new technical lines – the possibilities are numerous. What often holds us back from realizing such dreams is time. The Himalayas or Karakoram usually mean an expedition of a month or more, and who can afford that today… Or can they?

Benedikt Böhm and Prakash Sherpa decided to test how far this time barrier could be pushed with their expedition to the seven-thousand-meter Spantik. How fast can a high-altitude ski expedition be?

The Golden Peak of Karakoram

Spantik, also known as Golden Peak, is a 7,027m peak located in Pakistan’s Karakoram. It owes its name to the characteristic golden color of its walls in the setting sun. The mountain stands out for its relatively straightforward access logistics and – for a seven-thousander – a relatively easy normal route, making it a popular destination for first high-altitude expeditions.

First climbed in 1955 by a German team consisting of Reiner Diepen, Eduard Reinhardt, and Jochen Tietze. The history of skiing on this peak is much shorter – the first ski descent dates to 2019, when the French team of Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein skied from the summit as preparation for their Nanga Parbat project. Since then, the mountain has gained a reputation as one of the more interesting skiing objectives in the Karakoram, offering a combination of relatively safe terrain and impressive altitude.

Today, Spantik is a well-known objective, typically planned for 4-5 weeks, allowing for comfortable acclimatization and waiting for suitable weather windows. However, Benedikt decided to significantly shorten this time.

Express Expedition

On August 8, he lands in Islamabad, and the next day he’s already in Skardu. One day for preparations, a jeep ride to Arando – the last village accessible by road – and then begins a two-day trek to base camp at 4,300 meters. Unfortunately, at base camp, they face a three-day forced stay due to a severe lung infection.

On August 15, the team climbs to Camp 2 (5,500m) and returns to base camp. On August 16, the main push begins – first to Camp 1 (5,100m) for the night. The next day they reach Camp 2. After cooking and resting, at 22:00, the summit push begins. From 5,500m, they reach the summit in 7.5 hours.

Climate Change in High Mountains

The conditions on the mountain were surprising. “What struck me the most was the impact of climate change,” says Benedikt. “Up to 6,000 meters, it was terribly hot, even 40 degrees during the day. This means the snow doesn’t freeze, crevasses open up, and it’s simply much more dangerous than it should be.”

Spantik is a mountain that, in favorable conditions, offers good skiing possibilities. The summit dome to Camp 3 is wide, not too steep (up to 40 degrees), and relatively easy to ski. However, between Camp 3 and Camp 2, conditions are much more challenging – hard snow requires special caution. Lower down, the situation becomes even more complicated. “At lower altitudes, the melted snow is difficult for both ascending and skiing,” reports Benedikt. “Some ridge sections are completely bare. To Camp 1, we move on rocks, and the terrain between Camp 1 and Camp 2, which should be skiable, isn’t anymore due to conditions.”

During the descent, Benedikt experienced a dramatic situation. “During the descent, I fall into a crevasse,” he reports. “The slope collapses beneath me, and I land on a snow bridge below, from which I manage to get out. I’m incredibly lucky. Climate change isn’t just about melting glaciers or weaker winters – it’s also about our safety in high mountains.”

Technology in Service of Speed

In such a demanding expedition, equipment plays a crucial role. Recent years have brought a revolution in ski touring equipment construction – what used to be a compromise between weight and performance now offers extraordinary capabilities at weights below a kilogram.

“I used equipment from Dynafit’s Blacklight series, the company I manage,” explains Benedikt. “Relatively short skis – 158cm and less than 1000g in weight, plus lightweight bindings and boots. Light equipment provides great comfort on the ascent, especially in speed attempts where every gram counts. Today we have access to very good and light constructions that support ski mountaineers in such speed objectives as this one.”

This evolution in equipment has opened new possibilities in high mountains – what once was the domain of heavy, stable skis can now be achieved at half the weight. This translates directly into speed and efficiency in mountain operations.

After returning to base camp and a few hours of sleep, the team starts their return trek to Arando. “During the jeep ride, we stop at hot springs, and it’s the first day of this expedition when we truly relax and rest.” This moment of relaxation symbolically closes this intensive project.

Future and Conclusions

Fourteen days for a seven-thousander, without supplemental oxygen, without prior acclimatization, without using hypoxic devices – it’s an impressive achievement, but also an enormous risk. “It was an extreme expedition, operating practically without acclimatization and after illness, with no margin for error. Madness,” admits Benedikt.

For Böhm, the realization of mountain projects is primarily a path to self-development and an expression of personal creativity. “Start from your local mountains,” he advises. “Work on yourself, develop gradually, moving to increasingly higher mountains. The most important thing is to consistently move forward, even if there are a million steps ahead – just take them.”

High-altitude skiing remains a niche sport, especially on eight-thousanders. However, just as in Himalayan climbing, where after conquering all the highest peaks came time for winter ascents, harder routes, alpine style, and speed records, we can expect a similar evolution in high-altitude skiing. Speed ascents, new descent routes, peak linkups, and traverses – this is the future of the discipline. Benedikt’s Spantik shows that boundaries can be pushed not only vertically but also in time. May it always be done safely.